Updates on the Topical Landscape of Cosmetics

By ConsultingRoom.com

ConsultingRoom.com is the most comprehensive and accurate aesthetic information resource for consumers, health and beauty journalists and clinics.

In this column, Gary Conroy, CEO of 5 Squirrels Ltd, will provide updates on the topical landscape of cosmetics. He will focus on regulations, markets, new products, clinical breakthroughs, and scientific findings. The goal is to keep you and your patients informed about the latest developments in topicals, ensuring safety and enhancing treatment outcomes. Stay tuned for valuable insights and updates!
1. The SCCS has published new guidance on Retinol: The SCCS is of the opinion that vitamin A in cosmetics at the concentrations of 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) in body lotion and 0.3% RE for other leave-on and rinse-off products is safe. A decision and potential timeline are due to be reached in November 2023.
2. EU publishes new draft regulations on some skincare ingredients, including:
Clinic owners should be mindful of the new concentration limits when making purchasing decisions to keep themselves on the right side of the law.
  • Kojic Acid
  • Alpha Arbutin
  • Triclocarbon
  • UV filter 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
3. New USA regulations are due to take effect for cosmetic products for the first time in 85 years, bringing the USA closer to EU and UK legislation.
The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) redefines the standards within the US beauty industry and adds additional regulatory burden on suppliers, impacting the costs of goods. UK clinics are realising this in additional costs of imported US brands.
There will also be a new adverse event reporting requirement like the “Yellow Card” system in the UK, which clinics using US brands should familiarise themselves with.
4. The UK Office for Product Safety and Standards has launched two calls for data on potential endocrine disruptors. If ingredients are used in products that children or pregnant women may use, relevant data to support the safety and exposure estimates should be provided for these populations.
  • 1Triclosan (CAS 3380-34-5)
  • Triclocarban (CAS 101-20-2)
  • 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (CAS 36861-47-9 / 38102-62-4)
  • Salicylic acid (CAS 69-72-7)
  • Butylparaben (CAS 94-26-8)
  • Methylparaben (CAS 99-76-3)
  • Selected nano-particles
Interested parties should submit data by 15th December 2023.
5. The IFRA (International Fragrance Association) has published its 51st amendment. The new Standards incorporate restrictions/prohibitions based on either skin sensitisation and/or systemic toxicity, depigmentation and potential genotoxicity effects. Formulations are due to be compliant by October 2025, and clinics may notice changes to product fragrances as brands incorporate these regulations.
6. The UK has launched an enquiry to investigate banning microplastics for disposable wipes (including removal pads). Environmentally conscious clinic owners may wish to check if the products they supply contain wipes ahead of any new legislation.
1. Unilever announces a Q3 sales decline and sells stake in Dollar Shave Club.
2. Clariant to buy Lucas Meyer from IFF in $810 million deal.
3. Brexit Cut UK skincare exports by £850 M The British Beauty Council’s 2023 Value of Beauty report claimed this was largely the result of increased bureaucracy and trade barriers stifling sales since Britain’s withdrawal from the EU.
A British Chambers of Commerce survey found that 49% of UK exporters have reported difficulties adapting to the changes required to trade goods.
4. In new findings, P&G, L’Oreal, and L’Occtain have been accused of greenwashing and added to www.greenwash.com’s hall of shame alongside Sainsbury’s, Coca-Cola, and Nike.
5. Kate Moss joins the British Beauty Council as ambassador - The supermodel launched her wellness brand Cosmoss last year and has fronted campaigns for the likes of Charlotte Tilbury, Rimmel and Dior.
New Product Launches
1. l.a.b. offers an Acne Drying Compound that can be applied following patch treatments. l.a.b. (light-activated beauty) takes skin patch technology to the next level with its acorn-sized, LED-enabled Light Therapy Patch, which provides 3-minute, hands-free spot treatments.
2. Dr Levy introduces new pigment drops containing eight alpine plants, red algae, tranexamic acid, niacinamide and vitamin C.
3. HA-Derma launch Profhilo Figura Cream containing low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (formerly palmitoyl oligopeptide) + palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
4. Galderma introduce Alastin, a pre and post-procedure product to restore the appearance of elastin and collagen-containing niacinamide, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 and ceramide.
Clinical breakthroughs
1. Active Concepts Introduces the BioAuthentic Exosomes ingredients line for skincare manufacturers offering membrane proteins, guaranteeing structural stability, per the company. The BioAuthentic Exosomes line allows brands to choose a delivery system tailored to their intended benefits.
2. BASF has expanded its sun care portfolio with Tinomax CC (INCI: Calcium Carbonate, Hydroxyapatite). This ingredient offers a sensory improvement. It can enhance UV protection with SPF and UVA via light birefringence. The company has shown that formulations containing Tinomax CC tend to be significantly less sticky and greasy during application than those without this ingredient. These new innovative ingredients for SPF formulations are likely to become commonplace with ongoing regulatory discussion around the safety of Filters and Non-ionised metallic oxides.
3. Trautec has won investment to scale up synthetic recombinant human collagen for skin care and aesthetics. The market for synthetic collagen is expected to reach $186 Bn by 2028, having only been introduced in 2022.
This article was written for the Consulting Room Magazine.
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