Medical Skin Needling

Medical Skin Needling, also referred to as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) and Micro-Needling, is considered to be a relatively new concept within the plethora of aesthetic treatment options available for skin rejuvenation, having come about in the format that we now see since 2005.

Like many of the other treatments available it is aimed at stimulating the body’s own collagen production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, stretch marks, skin laxity and scarring such as that caused by acne or chicken pox. It has also been successfully applied to the indication of hair restoration in cases of alopecia.

This is achieved by introducing a series of fine, sharp needles into the skin following the administration of a topical local anaesthetic, in the case of medical grade devices, to reduce discomfort. The needles are attached to a single use, sterile roller or to a needle plate at the end of an automated pen-like device which is moved over the surface of the skin to create many microscopic channels or columns, approximately 0.07- 0.25mm wide, at various depths of penetration. In the case of medical rollers this is within the papillary dermal layer of the skin where collagen and elastin fibers are located (see illustration). Cosmetic rollers however reach a much shallower level in the epidermis where they aid absorption of topical ingredients. These minute punctures close over almost immediately as the channels created are very small.

This “damage” to the dermis encourages the body to produce more new collagen and elastin which generate new skin cells to literally “repair” itself, thus the skin becomes thicker, plumper and more youthful. Although primarily used on the face, this procedure can be carried out anywhere on the body, such as on stretch marks on the thighs and abdomen, and generally on all skin types.

There are a number of different roller devices, such as Genuine Dermaroller™, Roll-CIT™ and MTS-Roller™ now available to the UK marketplace aimed at medical skin needling. These vary in needle length, from approximately 0.02mm, designed for personal, cosmetic use at home, often in conjunction with a skin care regime, as the minute skin punctures assist the absorption of any active ingredients which improve and maintain the appearance of the skin. Needle length on some devices can reach up to 3mm, designed for professional, medical use which will achieve a more significant result on skin regeneration when used by a trained practitioner to induce new collagen formation. Often, the at-home roller will be recommended for use for several months during and following conclusion of a treatment programme with the professional roller, in conjunction with an appropriate skincare regime to both promote and maintain rejuvenation results. Use of the so called cosmetic rollers is deemed safe to carry out at home due to the minimal level of needle insertion and is considered to be virtually painless by most people.

As this treatment has evolved, automated systems have been developed. Of course they are not automated rollers, but in fact automated needle bearing stamps fixed to a hand-held or pen-like unit which is operated in a continuous motion across the skin. They have been designed to improve the ease-of-use, speed and flexibility of medical needling treatments, and to augment the achievable treatment results whilst reducing pain and discomfort. Devices being used include Dermapen and eDermastamp.

Careful discussions regarding your reasons for wanting treatment are very important before you begin the treatment. You must also make sure that this treatment can deliver what you want and how you would like to look afterwards. Your practitioner should be able to answer all these questions.

A medical history should also be taken to make sure that there are no reasons why you shouldn’t undertake treatment. You may be asked to read detailed information and sign a consent form which means that you have understood the potential benefits and risks associated with the procedure.

Photographs may also be taken by the practitioner for a "before and after" comparison at a later date.

Procedure

Skin preparation with the application of vitamin A and C creams may be recommended for up to 4 weeks prior to the commencement of the procedure. A similar skin care regime will also be recommended for up to 6 months post-treatment to aid the healthy production of the new collagen and the rejuvenation of the skin.
 
Treatment sessions with medical grade, manual rollers take between 10 minutes and an hour depending on the size of the area being treated.
 
Pain should be minimal due to the application of the topical anaesthetic; however you may still feel some discomfort.
 
In most cases you will be given a cosmetic version of the treatment roller to use at home for the next three months in conjunction with the topical skincare regime to enhance the final results.

Repeat Procedures

It can take between 4 – 8 weeks before visible signs of skin regeneration are seen and the process will continue over the following months, providing a gradual enhancement.
 
A single treatment can produce noticeable results, however a programme of 2 – 5 treatments spaced 2 – 3 months apart is often recommended to achieve optimum results, in conjunction with an at-home regime.
 
The specific number of sessions required will depend on the area being treated and the severity of the indication, as well as the level of natural response from the individual’s body.

You will not be able to access this treatment via the National Health Service (NHS).

Private costs for medical skin needling treatments depend on the area(s) being treated and the type of device being used. Generally prices for treatment with manual rollers is comparative to treatments with automated devices.

For example, a programme of in-clinic treatments with either the Medical or the Cosmetic Roll-CIT™ starts from around £395.00.
 
A single, in-clinic treatment with the Genuine Dermaroller™ is likely to cost from £200 - £350, depending on the practitioner, including post treatment skincare. Further sessions, should they be required will be less and are often combined at a discount in a programme.
 
Cosmetic, home use rollers are available from £60 - £75, and up to £115+ when combined with skincare products in a kit.

Medical Skin Needling for Collagen Induction Therapy is considered to be another useful and successful tool in the armament of the cosmetic practitioner in the fight again the signs of ageing. Used in combination with tried and tested professional skincare products it can have a significant effect on the appearance of the skin with minimal downtime and discomfort.
 
Treatment with medical derma rollers is not governed by the regulations of the Care Quality Commission, meaning that clinics are not required to be registered and inspected by them if they offer this treatment. Consumers must therefore be sure to seek out practitioners who can demonstrate proper training credentials and experience for such treatments.
 
Many copycat devices are also available for sale on Internet sites, mostly auction sites such as eBay or less reputable online pharmacy sites from abroad. Often these include the sale of medical grade rollers which should not be used by the home user due to the potential for harm and the risk of infection if the proper aseptic precautions are not followed. We would recommend that consumers visit a clinic for more aggressive medical skin needling treatments and for appropriate home care programmes, however if you would like to try this treatment at home to assist with the absorption of skincare products we would urge consumers to purchase the devices through reputable online sellers, clinics or direct from manufacturers or distributors.