Behind the Mask - Everything You Need to Know About LED

Many of you will have seen the recent controversy surrounding the efficacy of LED light therapy vs laser or IPL and whether LED face masks work, or are just an expensive gimmick… Now, the expert behind household name masks such as Omnilux, Beauty Pie, Déesse PRO, MZ Skin, Dr Sabrina, faceLITE and more - has come forward to offer her insights on this confusing beauty category. 

Sue D’Arcy is the CEO and founder of iSMART, the leading global manufacturer of LED phototherapeutic devices, whose designs, research and technology support some of the world’s most reputable skincare brands, including those named above. With phototherapeutic devices set to become the fastest-growing segment of home-use beauty tools, Sue’s greatest concern is that consumers are being misled about the science behind the devices and are at risk from substandard companies flooding the market with ineffective, unsafe and unregulated products.

Here, Sue sets the record straight and provides the answers everyone needs to ensure that what they’re purchasing is safe and effective. 

SO, WHAT DO CONSUMERS NEED TO KNOW?

Check the Dosage! 

Clinical research shows it is the wavelength (i.e. the colour) and not the intensity (how quickly the light is delivered) that matters; more powerful does not mean more effective - in fact, higher intensity devices can actually inhibit rather than promote cellular responses.

Colour Claims...
Different wavelengths of light show as different colours – however, it’s important to check what the mask is claiming to deliver with each of these wavelengths:  

- Blue light (415nm) targets bacteria which cause acne vulgaris, and any device which treats acne must comply with the regulatory requirements for a medical device. Many blue light products claim to treat “spots” and “blemishes” instead of saying “acne” to avoid this regulatory compliance. Such devices should be avoided, as they are unregulated and may not be safe.  

- Red light (633nm) reduces inflammation and redness, repairs cells, encourages collagen, and helps reduce visible signs of skin ageing e.g., wrinkles and age spots.

- Near-infrared light (830nm and 1070nm) provides deeper penetration and a stronger anti-inflammatory response, as well as reducing visible signs of skin ageing.  

1070nm is the ONLY wavelength FDA-cleared for improving healing times. WATCH OUT for claims like “treats acne,” or “reduces pain and inflammation” – these are medical claims and require certain regulatory standards to be met, backed up by publicly available and statistically sound clinical data.

Home or Salon?  

It’s a common misconception that spa/salon-grade devices deliver better results than a home-use facemask. Several reputable (and regulated) manufacturers of both professional and home-use products (such as market-leaders Omnilux) will confirm that whether you’re at home or the salon, when used at the correct wavelength and duration, the results are the same and well-recognised.

Seal of Approval?

“FDA Approved” carries an air of authority but don’t be fooled; the FDA doesn’t approve class 1 or 2 medical devices, they provide “clearance” for marketing in the US. “FDA-registered” is also a red herring; the FDA has not reviewed the safety or efficacy of the device at this stage - a manufacturer has merely registered their company and listed the product on the FDA’s database. If purchasing a device for a medical purpose, look for the relevant regulatory certifications. In the UK, this is the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA).

What about Manufacturers and Retailers?  

To be classed as a medical device, the manufacturer must have a quality system in place (and be MDSAP ISO 13485 accredited). This ensures the quality and safety of the product and should be visible on the company’s website. Reputable manufacturers should also monitor for any adverse events with their devices and have systems in place to support consumers. Retailers are responsible for checking the devices they sell meet legal and regulatory requirements, otherwise, their liability insurance won’t cover consumer claims if something goes wrong.

“Not all LED products are created equal and we’re passionate about helping consumers do their homework to ensure they have a safe and effective experience,” says Sue. “We’re proud that leading global brands work with us to develop their LED light-therapy products because we adhere to such stringent standards in our design, manufacturing, and testing processes.”