A recent investigation by 5 News has raised concerns about UK clinics using illegal human-derived exosomes in so-called “next-gen” facials — a treatment trend exploding across TikTok and social media. These facials promise younger, smoother and more radiant skin, but experts warn that many consumers don’t actually know what’s inside these powerful serums.
With exosome treatments rapidly appearing on clinic menus nationwide, clarity and transparency are becoming more important than ever.
Below, trusted voices in medical aesthetics share expert insight to help decode the headlines and guide consumers safely.
“In my years of using exosomes in clinic I only use high-quality brands from trusted suppliers. Human-derived exosomes are not illegal per se in the UK for topical application but they must not be injected, and sensationalist headlines can mislead patients. I always advise patients to ask for written product sourcing information and to check exactly what the exosome product is and where it comes from.”
Dr Phillips highlights a key issue: while topical exosomes are not banned, poor regulation means patients must be proactive in checking product quality and sourcing.
“I use topical E50 salmon-derived exosomes from Korea, which contain five billion particles per vial. Recently a client asked for a specific ‘plant-based’ exosome brand for their facial - but after contacting the manufacturer, I discovered it actually contained 12.5% human material! Transparency in sourcing is essential for patient safety and brand credibility.”
This example shows how misleading marketing claims can be — even products labelled “plant-based” may contain human-derived components.
Exosome facials have rapidly become a must-try anti-ageing treatment, praised for boosting collagen, improving texture, and supporting skin repair. But with the market growing faster than regulation can keep up, questions around:
ingredient sourcing
legality
safety
transparency
are now at the forefront.
As with any trending treatment, patients should take extra care to verify that clinics use reputable suppliers and can clearly explain what is being applied to the skin.
Exosomes may hold exciting potential — but only when used safely, ethically, and with full transparency.
Exosomes are tiny particles naturally released by cells. They contain growth factors and signals that can help stimulate skin repair and rejuvenation when applied topically.
Topical exosome treatments are not illegal in the UK. However, injecting exosomes is not permitted, and sourcing standards are not yet strictly regulated.
No. Exosomes can come from human, plant, or animal sources (such as salmon), and product quality varies widely. Some brands marketed as “plant-based” have been found to contain human material.
Risks arise when:
The source of the exosomes is unclear
The product is falsely advertised
Clinics use unverified suppliers
Exosomes are injected rather than used topically
Patients often report:
Brighter skin
Improved texture
Reduced redness
Enhanced healing after treatments like microneedling
Results vary depending on the product used and the clinic’s technique.
Before booking an exosome facial, ask your practitioner:
What is the exact exosome product you use?
Ask for the full product name and manufacturer.
Is the product human-derived, plant-based, or animal-derived?
Make sure the clinic can explain clearly and without hesitation.
Can I see written evidence of sourcing and safety data?
Reputable clinics should be able to provide this.
Is this product licensed or cleared for topical cosmetic use?
If the answer is vague or unclear, be cautious.
Has the product been independently tested?
Look for third-party testing or certificates of analysis.
How are exosomes applied during the treatment?
Remember: in the UK, exosomes should not be injected.
Do you have training and experience using this brand?
Experience matters, especially with emerging treatments.
What results should I realistically expect?
Avoid clinics promising dramatic, guaranteed outcomes.
What aftercare do I need?
Proper aftercare supports the best skin response.
Thinking about Botox or already booked in? This guide breaks down everything you should know before and after your treatment — from common side effects to how to avoid issues like brow heaviness and ptosis.
You’ve definitely heard the buzz about Polynucleotides… but what are they really?
Following the BBC’s recent report on LED mask adverts being banned over unverified acne and rosacea claims, Sue D’Arcy — CEO and founder of iSMART, the global leader in LED phototherapeutic technology — is urging consumers to be extra cautious as Black Friday approaches.
Hey, wait!
Before you go.....
Let's stay in touch, pop your details here and we'll send our editor's hand-picked updates on your fave subjects.