Understanding under-eye pigmentation

Dr Rajani Nalluri discusses causes, treatments, and prevention tips

Under-eye pigmentation, often referred to as dark circles, is a common skin concern for many people. It can make one appear tired and dull which can be distressing for some people, so understanding its causes and knowing how to manage it can make a significant difference in improving one’s appearance. This blog post explores the various causes of under-eye pigmentation, available treatment options, and tips for prevention so that individuals can feel more confident and rejuvenated.

What are dark circles?

Dark circles, or periorbital hyperpigmentation, are dark patches that appear on the lower eyelids. Depending on skin tone, they may appear as a purple, brown, black, or even blue hue, and sometimes this discolouration extends to the upper eyelids, the inner part of the nose, or the upper cheeks.

It can affect both men and women of all ages. However, individuals with darker skin tones may notice these pigmentation marks becoming more pronounced, particularly after puberty or early adulthood.

While dark circles can make individuals appear tired, they are often more of a cosmetic concern rather than a health issue. However, some people seek dermatological or cosmetic treatments to improve their appearance and achieve a more refreshed, well-rested look.

Causes of under-eye pigmentation

Dark circles can be caused by various factors. Understanding these causes is the first step in addressing the condition effectively. The most common contributors include:

Genetic factors: Genetics play a significant role in the development of dark circles. Individuals with a family history of dark circles, particularly those of Asian or Mediterranean descent, may be more prone to this condition. This is often due to inherited factors such as the natural shape of the bone structure, skin type, and skin tone.
Hyperpigmentation: Excess melanin production is a major cause of dark circles, particularly in individuals with darker skin tones. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) may develop because of skin irritation, rubbing, or allergic reactions. Additionally, sun exposure can increase melanin production, exacerbating pigmentation under the eyes.
Vascular causes: Vascular dark circles typically have a reddish or bluish tint. This occurs when blood vessels beneath the thin skin around the eyes become more visible. The skin in this area is particularly delicate, and poor circulation can cause the blood vessels to appear darker, making the under-eye area look tired or dull.
Shadow effect: The shadow effect occurs when volume loss in the under-eye area creates hollows, which cast shadows and make dark circles more noticeable. As individuals age, or due to genetic factors, fat and bone tissue may naturally thin, leading to more pronounced shadows in the tear trough area.
Dermal melanocytosis: Some people may experience dermal melanocytosis, a condition where birthmarks or other skin marks contribute to pigmentation around the eyes. These birthmarks may become more prominent with age or in response to environmental factors like sun exposure.
Periorbital oedema: Swelling around the eyes, known as periorbital oedema, can make dark circles appear worse, particularly in the morning. This is often caused by fluid retention or certain medical conditions, including thyroid disease or allergies, which contribute to puffiness and worsen the appearance of dark circles.
Lifestyle factors: Factors such as sleep deprivation, stress, alcohol consumption, and smoking are common contributors to dark circles. Chronic stress can increase the production of Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone (MSH), leading to darker pigmentation. Excessive sun exposure, dehydration, and frequent eye rubbing can also worsen the condition.
Nutritional deficiencies: Deficiencies in essential nutrients, especially iron, can lead to anaemia, which often presents as pale skin and dark circles. Chronic illness or poor nutrition can also contribute to a depleted appearance, making under-eye pigmentation more prominent.

Treatment options for dark circles

Treatment for under-eye pigmentation varies depending on the underlying cause. Below are some common treatment options:

Topical treatments
- Vitamin C: Known for its antioxidant properties, vitamin C can help reduce melanin production and brighten the under-eye area. It is especially beneficial for individuals with pigmentation caused by sun exposure or post-inflammatory pigmentation
- Retinoids: Topical retinoids stimulate collagen production, improving skin texture and thickness. They can be helpful for reducing the appearance of dark circles caused by skin thinning.
- Caffeine: Often included in eye creams, caffeine constricts blood vessels and can reduce puffiness and the appearance of dark circles caused by vascular issues.
Chemical peels: Superficial chemical peels are an effective treatment to exfoliate the skin and reduce pigmentation. They are particularly useful for addressing surface-level pigmentation, such as that caused by sun exposure or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Laser treatments
- Fractional CO2 lasers and Q-switched lasers are designed to target excess pigmentation and stimulate collagen production in the under-eye area. These treatments can be particularly effective for reducing vascular dark circles and skin thinning.
- Intense pulsed light (IPL): IPL is a non-invasive treatment that can address both pigmentation and redness by targeting blood vessels beneath the skin’s surface.
Dermal fillers: For individuals with dark circles caused by volume loss in the under-eye area (tear troughs), dermal fillers like hyaluronic acid can restore lost volume, reduce shadows, and smooth the under-eye skin. This treatment helps plump the skin, making dark circles less noticeable.
Surgical treatments: In more severe cases, blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) or fat grafting can be performed to remove excess skin or fat, restoring a youthful and refreshed appearance. These procedures should only be carried out by experienced surgeons who specialise in facial aesthetics.

Prevention tips for dark circles

While treatments can help reduce the appearance of dark circles, prevention is equally important. Here are some helpful tips for minimising dark circles:

Sleep well: Ensuring sufficient rest (7-9 hours) allows the skin to regenerate and reduces the appearance of dark circles caused by fatigue.
Protect your skin from the sun: Always use sunscreen around the eyes to prevent sun-induced pigmentation. Sunglasses and seeking shade during peak sun hours (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.) are also effective preventive measures.
Adopt a healthy lifestyle: Eating a balanced diet rich in vitamins and antioxidants, staying hydrated, and avoiding smoking and excessive alcohol consumption can all help maintain healthy skin.
Gentle care: Avoid rubbing or scratching the delicate skin around the eyes. Use gentle makeup removal methods and avoid harsh skincare products that could irritate the sensitive skin under the eyes.

Conclusion

Dark circles are a common issue with various causes, from genetics and pigmentation to vascular issues and lifestyle factors. While it may not be possible to get rid of them entirely, there are several treatment options—ranging from topical treatments to advanced procedures—can help improve their appearance. Prevention through proper skincare and lifestyle habits also plays an important role in managing and reducing dark circles.

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All information contained within this site is carefully researched and maintained for accuracy of content. Please note that for prospective purchasers of aesthetic treatments, information and guidance provided does not substitute an in-depth consultation with an experienced practitioner.

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