Q4 2024 topicals round-up
In this monthly column, Gary Conroy, CEO of 5 Squirrels Ltd, will provide updates on the cosmetic topical landscape. He will focus on regulations, markets, new products, clinical breakthroughs, and scientific findings. The goal is to keep you and your patients informed about the latest developments in topicals, ensuring safety and enhancing treatment outcomes. Stay tuned for valuable insights and updates!
The summer recess in parliaments has meant little change in the regulatory landscape in the last quarter, however with a new UK government promising more alignment with the EU a tabled overhaul of the EU cosmetic regulations could have a major impact int e coming months although there is a lot of internal politics and industry resistance to this.
Markets, however, have been very dynamic in the last quarter with convergence between pharma and cosmetic companies both in the medical and aesthetics space as appetite grows from both drug and aesthetics suppliers to widen their reach into consumer audiences.
Regulations
In August 2024 the UK Health and safety Executive published a technical report on the mandatory classifications for Tea tree Oil under the GB Classification, Labelling and Packaging Regulation. It is proposed that tea tree Oil will have a mandatory CMR 1B as a reproductive toxin. A final decision is due within 12 months.
This could effectively mean a ban on the chemicals used.
The data has been produced from force-feeding animals. Tea tree Oil and industry specialists are challenging the report for topical use.
The ASA has begun clamping down on Menopause claims made around cosmetic products especially on social media with 5 influencers identified for investigation due to them making medicinal claims of treating menopause symptoms with moisturisers.
https://www.asa.org.uk/rulings/feel-holdings-ltd-a24-1246372-feel-holdings-ltd.html
A revision of the EU cosmetics regulations which has not been updated since 2013 has been suspended due to internal disagreement and its potential cost impacts to industry.
Johnson & Johnson has agreed to a $9 Bn+ settlement over ovarian cancer claims from talc, forcing a subsidiary to file for bankruptcy.
Markets
There have been several interesting acquisitions of cosmetic companies by pharmaceutical companies in the last quarter as the two, once separated by regulation industries, begin to diverge.
The trend is fuelled by an appetite for drug companies to recruit new audiences for blockbuster drugs following the success of Botox and Ozempic with the same target consumer groups.
- Taro Pharmaceuticals purchased Alchemee
- Febre Laboratories bought a stake in MiYe cosmetics and also acquired Glytone
- Megalabs bought a majority stake in DS laboratories
- Arrotex Pharma purchased Nude cosmetics and Makeup Cartel
https://beautymatter.com/articles/the-pharma-beauty-fusion
In another interesting move following the L’Oréal investment in Galderma, Crown laboratories owner of Strivectin cosmetics have announced a merger with Revance A Texas based Fille rand Toxin company.
https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/crown-laboratories-to-acquire,24291
The Body Shop’s remaining stores have been rescued by The Aurea group securing the jobs of 1300 employees. 7,000 jobs have already been lost by the company’s insolvency so far.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cx2lzjlg182o
Scientific
Findings in Frontiers in Nutrition have indicated that an optimal dose of Omega 3’s can delay biological ageing; it indicated that an optimal dose of 1.1 grams per day could decrease phenotype ageing, but higher doses did not correlate with added benefits.
https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/nutrition/articles/10.3389/fnut.2024.1424156/full#h6
As controversy grows around the efficacy of some SPF products on the market and a recent Which? Report claiming many did not achieve the claims made. The issue revolves around the current test methods which essentially require in vivo tests by burning human skin to determine the SPF factor. Whilst there are ethical questions around the testing method there is debate around the accuracy of replicating the same results across the human population and different consumers to achieve the same results.
A new In Vitro method is being developed by the International Standardisation organisation which could lead to more predictable and ethical results. It should be available for use in early 2025.
L’Oréal has launched a new ingredient, Melasyl, to address localised pigmentation. The company claims that the groundbreaking new ingredient “Melasyl is a first-of-its-kind ingredient that helps to address localized skin pigmentation issues, with proven efficacy and wide accessibility that will enable more people to regain their self-confidence.”
Melasyl works by capturing melanin precursors before they turn into eumelanin and pheomelanin, which are coloured pigments. It’s designed to help with Age spots, post-acne marks, and Dark spots and provide a more even skin tone.
https://www.loreal.com/en/press-release/research-and-innovation/melasyl/
If you are interested in launching your own brand skincare or developing your own bespoke formulations contact info@5squirrels.com to discuss your project.