Neostrata ® Peels

Product Summary

First launched in the U.S. in 1988 by founding Dermatologists Drs. Van Scott and Yu, this product has been distributed in Britain since the late 90s.

Generic name

Glycolic Acid.

Is this a superficial, medium or deep peel?

Superficial to Medium depth peel.

What skin problems does it claim to treat?

Using a Neostrata peel regimen, you`ll see healthier, younger-looking skin.

It visibly diminishes the look of fine lines and wrinkles, smoothes and softens skin, increases hydration and suppleness, and balances irregular skin tones. It can also improve oily/acne prone skin.

Higher strengths can help to reduce the appearance of acne scarring and certain pigmentation problems.

Nesotrata peels can be used on the face, the neck, the chest and the hands and can be used on all types of skin including: fine skin, normal skin or greasy or thick skin.

It can also be used safely and effectively on black and asian skin.

Licenced status

Medical device.

Should be used by

Trained members of the medical profession only. It should not be used by beauty therapists.

Product range

Neostrata 20%: 20% gylcolic acid

Neostrata 35%: 35% glycolic acid

Neostrata 50%: 50% glycolic acid

Neostrata 70%: 70% glycolic acid - Used for more aggressive treatment of sun damaged skin.

There are a number of special creams and lotions available to be used in combination with Neostrata peels.

Peels not to be used in

Pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Peel program

The NeoStrata Skin Rejuvenation System is a glycolic acid peel system that can only be performed as an in-office procedure by a trained professional. It provides controlled and predictable removal of surface skin cells, stimulating skin renewal to improve the appearance of the skin. You will notice a difference in your skin texture immediately. The procedure is fast and convenient, taking only about fifteen minutes. And with virtually no recovery time, you can be back to your normal routine the same day. There is no significant pain or discomfort or need for anaesthesia.

It takes usually 4-6 treatments at three to four week intervals to achieve the desired effect

All body areas appear to respond well to treatment with glycolic acid; however, the arms, hands, neck and chest all improve at a slower rate than the face.

Reported side effects

Most patients can undergo glycolic peeling without any side effects. The treated skin is virtually normal in appearance. The fact that the patient underwent a peel in usually undetectable to others. Although rare, a patient may experience mild sloughing, producing some weeping or scabbing. Some redness is temporary and normal. Any of these side effects may be covered with make up.

Rarely, if scabs are picked, scarring may occur or areas of hypopigmentation (lighter coloured skin) or hyperpigmentation (darker coloured skin) may result from a peel.

Your practitioner will discuss these potential side effects in a consultation.


Again, this depends on area treated and how much is required, and the practitioner doing the treatment, but ranges are in the region of:£60 to £100 per treatment session.

Clinical evidence

1. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Control of keratinization with alpha hydroxyacids and related compounds. Arch Dermatol 1974; 110:586-590.

2. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Modulation of keratinization with alpha hydroxyacids and related compounds. In: Frost, Gomez and Zaias, Eds. Recent Advances in Dermatopharmacology. Proceedings of Symposium on Dermatopharmacology. New York: Spectrum Publications 1978; 211-217.

3. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Substances that modify the stratum corneum by modulating its formation. In: Frost, P. and Horwitz, S., eds. Principles of Cosmetics for the Dermatologist. St. Louis: C.V. Mosby 1982; 70-74.

4. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Hyperkeratinization, corneocyte cohesion and alpha hydroxy acids. J Am Acad Dermatol 1984; 11:867-879.

5. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Alpha hydroxy acids. Therapeutic potentials. Canad J Dermatol 1989; 1(5):108-112.

6. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Alpha Hydroxyacids: procedures for use in clinical practice. Cutis 1989; 43:222-228.

7. Griffin TD, Van Scott EJ. Use of pyruvic acid in the treatment of actinic keratoses: a clinical and histopathologic study. Cutis 1991; 47:325-329.

8. Hunt MJ, Barnetson R StC. A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. Australas J Dermatol 1992; 33:131-134.

9. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Alpha hydroxyacids: science and therapeutic use. Cosmet Dermatol 1994; 7(10s):12-20.

10. Bernstein EF, Uitto J. Connective tissue alterations in photoaged skin and the effects of alpha hydroxy acids. J Geriatr Dermatol 1995; 3 Suppl A (3):7A-18A.

11. Leyden JJ, Lavker RM, Grove G, Kaidbey K. Alpha hydroxy acids are more than moisturizers. J Geriatr Dermatol 1995; 3 Suppl A (3):33A-37A.

12. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Actions of alpha hydroxyacids on skin compartments. J Geriatr Dermatol 1995; 3 Suppl A(3):19A-24A.

13. Weinkauf R, Murahata R, Green B. The lactic acid sting test in the evaluation of protective effects provided by topical cosmetic preparations. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Washington D.C., February, 1996.

14. Briden ME, Rendon-Pellerano MI. Treatment of Rosacea with glycolic acid. J Geriatr Dermatol 1996; 4(SB):17B-21B.

15. Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Effects of alpha hydroxyacids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996; 34:187-95.

16. Kakita LS, Petratos MA. The use of glycolic acid in Asian and darker skin types. J Geriatr Dermatol 1996; 4(SB):8B-11B.

17. Leyden JJ. Photodamage: the causative role of UVA and the therapeutic role of a-hydroxy acids. Yale University / Glaxo Dermatology Lectureship Series in Dermatology 1996; 5-27.

18. Rendon-Pellerano MI, Bernstein EF. The use of glycolic acids in the management of xerosis and photoaging. J Geriatr Dermatol 1996; 4(SB):12B-16B.

19. Stiller MJ, Bartolone J, Stern R, Smith S, Kollias N, Gillies R, Drake LA. Topical 8% Gycolic acid and 8% L-Lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Arch Dermatol 1996; 132:631-636.

20. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Bioavailability of alpha-hydroxy acids in topical formulations. Cosmet Dermatol 1996; 9(6):54-62.

21. Van Scott EJ, Ditre CM, Yu RJ. Alpha hydroxyacids in the treatment of signs of photoaging. Elsevier Science: Clinics in Dermatology 1996;14:217-226.

22. Thiboutot DM. Alpha hydroxy acids: what we know and what we need to know. Medical & Surgical Dermatology 1996;3:275-278.

23. Morganti P, Randazzo SD, Fabrizi G, Bruno C. Decreasing the stinging capacity and improving the antiaging activity of AHAs. J. Appl Cosmetol 1996;14:79-91.

24. Green B, Wildnauer R, Milligan D, Grove G. Comparative clinical efficacy of three novel polyhydroxy alpha-hydroxy acids using instrumental assessment. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: San Francisco, March, 1997.

25. Berardesca E, Distante F, Vignoli GP, Oresajo C, Green B. Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function. British J Dermatol 1997; 137:934-938.

26. Bergfeld W, Tung R, Vidimos A, Vellanki L, Remzi B, Stanton-Hicks U. Improving the cosmetic appearance of photoaged skin with glycolic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol 1997; 36:101 1-3.

27. Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, Ditre CM, Uitto J, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Citric Acid increases viable epidermal thickness & glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatol Surg 1997; 23:689-94.

28. Van Scott EJ, Newcomer VD. Masters in dermatology. Dermatol World 1997; Suppl.

29. Yu RJ. Skin irritation and AHA formulation. Cosmet Dermatol 1997; 10(6):31.

30. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Salicylic acid: not a beta-hydroxy acid. Cosmet Dermatol 1997; 10(9).

31. Bergfeld WF, Remzi BK, Green B, Patel P, Ravas R. An evaluation of the gluconolactone sensitive skin care products. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Orlando, February, 1998.

32. Bond M, Van Scott EJ. New hydroxy acid formula for ichthyosis and other severe dry skin. Cosmet Dermatol 1998; 11(2):32-33.

33. Ditre CM. Building your practice with glycolic acid peels. Skin & Aging 1998; 48-53.

34. Kempers S, Katz HI, Wildnauer R, Green, B. An evaluation of the effect of an alpha hydroxy acid-blend skin cream in the cosmetic improvement of symptoms of moderate to severe xerosis, epidermolytic hyperkeratosis, and ichthyosis. Cutis 1998; 61:347-350.

35. Tucci MG, Belmonte MM, Biagini G, Morganti P, Vellucci E, Talassi O, Solmi R, Ricotti G. AHAs and derivatives. Cosmetics & Toiletries 1998;113:55-58.

36. Green B, Tseng C, Wildnauer R, Herndon J, Rizer R. Safety and efficacy of a gluconolactone (polyhydroxy acid) containing regimen on sensitive skin and photodamage following controlled consumer use. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: New Orleans, March, 1999.

37. Green BA, Wildnauer RH. Effect of 10%, 20% and 25% Alpha-hydroxyacid (Citric Acid) Formulations on Skin Morphology. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Washington DC, March, 2000.

38. Green BA, Wildnauer RH, Edison BL. Lactobionic acid – a novel polyhydroxy bionic acid for skincare. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Washington DC, March, 2000.

39. Green BA. Lactobionic Acid. Skin Inc 2000;11:62-65.

40. Green BA, Beer AE, Edison BL. Use of concealing cosmetics to reduce the visibility of topical skin afflictions for enhanced quality of life. Intl Psoriasis Sym Poster Exhibit: San Francisco, June 2001.

41. Grimes P, Edison BL, Green BA, Wildnauer RH. Evaluation of inherent differences in ethnic skin types and response to topical polyhydroxy acid (PHA) use. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Washington DC, March, 2001.

42. Green BA, Wildnauer RH, Hwu RC, Milora DJ, Edison BL. Amphoteric complexes offer unique benefits to alpha hydroxyacid (AHA) skin care formulations. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Washington DC, March, 2001.

43. Bernstein EF, Lee J, Brown DB, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Glycolic acid treatment increases type I Collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin. Dermatol Surg 2001;27(5):1-5.

44. Kraechter HU, McCaulley JA, Edison B, Green B, Milora DJ. Amphoteric hydroxy complexes: AHAs with reduced stinging and irritation. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2001;116(1):47-52.

45. Bernstein EF. Chemical Peels. In:
Kaminer, Arndt, Dover, Eds. Atlas of Aesthetic Cutaneous Surgery. W.B. Saunders 2001;Chapter 18:313-329.

46. Green, B.A., Edison, B.L., Wildnauer, RH, Sigler, M.L. Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone: PHAs for photoaged skin. Cosmetic Dermatology Sep. 2001; 24-28.

47. Bernstein, E.F., Green, B.A., Edison B., Wildnauer, R.H. Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs): clinical uses for the next generation of hydroxy acids. Skin & Aging Sep. 2001 Supplement.

48. Yu, R.J., Van Scott, E.J. A discussion of control-release formulations of AHAs. Cosmetic Dermatology Oct. 2001; 15-18.

49. Green BA, Edison BL, Wildnauer RH. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) provide conditioning effects to skin without increasing sensitivity to UV light. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: New Orleans, March, 2002.

50. Green BA, Wildnauer RH. Formulating and marketing AHA products for the global market. In: Moy R, Luftman D, Kakita L, eds. Glycolic acid peels. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, 2002; pp 207-226.

51. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Hydroxy acids: past, present, future. In: Moy R, Luftman D, Kakita L, eds. Glycolic acid peels. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker,2002; pp 1-14.

52. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Bioavailable alpha hydroxy acid in topical formulations. In: Moy R, Luftman D, Kakita L, eds. Glycolic acid peels. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker,2002; pp 15-28.

53. Green BA, Edison BL, Lee Y. Treatment of photoaged hands. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002;117(10):49-54.

54. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Hydroxycarboxylic acids, N-acetylamino sugars, and N-acetylamino acids. SKINmed 2002;2:117-122.

55. Green BA. What every esthetician should know about dry skin. Skin Inc. 2003;15(2):75-81.

56. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Hydroxyacids and their topical use in the elderly. In: Skin Diseases in the Elderly. Marcel Dekker, Inc. (to be published in 2003).